Look At Those Waves!!
My goodness, at its core surfing is one of the coolest most "in touch with nature" type sports there is...and if you have never had the chance to surf make a bee line to the airplane in your driveway and get out somewhere and experience it.
Like waterskiing, surfing, has people who are so far above in skill then the rest of us that they go out and search for more difficult obstacles, or more challanging environments or something to keep up that rush. Think of...ski fly vs regular jumping, something differnet for more juice.
In the video above, and from what we can gather, you see that the reefs below the waterline are set up in such as way that the waves are thicking...deeper, not higher, but more aggressive and with a more random way in which the waves break.
This, of course, attracts hard core surfers that want to experience this maniacal brand of surfing. They want to experiance a rush and a style of surfing they haven't experianced before that allows them the threat of danger and death while providing the rush of surfing. Think of it in terms we all know, its like...1/3 unprotected sex with a stranger, 1/3 experimental drug use and 1/3 in your own bed. I.e, you know the generalities but your in for something you have never experienced before.
Even if that amazing analagy doesn't work for you, just watch the people wipe out into the waves and look at what is coming behind them, holy lord that is that mean looking. How on earth do these dudes survive?
Well dude, sometimes you eat the bear and sometimes...well...the bear eats you.